What to do in Marrakech? My advice after 10 years in the ochre city
Ten years ago, I arrived in Marrakech with a one-way ticket. The idea was to take a break, maybe a few months. And like many people here... I never left. Marrakech has this incredible capacity to envelop you, to nourish you with its light, its contrasts, its gentle way of life. And even after all these years, it continues to surprise me... Drawing on my experience, I tell you what to do in Marrakech.
So here's my personal guide, far from the clichés, to really experiencing Marrakech, as I do on a daily basis. What I recommend, what I avoid, my advice, and above all... my favorites.
What to do in Marrakech
Getting lost in the medina
The medina is a world apart. It's like entering another era, another rhythm. Here, everything is slower, denser. I love strolling here early in the morning, when the alleyways are still quiet, the craftsmen are opening their stalls and the sun is beginning to warm the ochre walls.
Museums and gardens
Among my favorites: the Musée des Confluences (Dar El Bacha), for its architecture and hushed atmosphere, the Jardin Majorelle of course, despite the crowds, and the more discreet Jardin Secret. And then a little further on, the Jardin d'Anima - a real nugget still relatively untouched by mass tourism, poetic, inspiring and absolutely magical. For those who are interested, here's a full day's visit discover Marrakech's most beautiful gardens.
Palaces, even just for coffee
You don't have to stay there to enjoy them. I love to spend an hour or two in the city's palaces - be it La Mamounia, the Royal Mansour, Amanjena, or the Mandarin Oriental - just to have a coffee in the gardens, leaf through a book, get inspired by the decor. It's an interlude of pure beauty, accessible to all.
Living the Agafay desert
Less than an hour from the center, the Agafay desert is my place of refuge for unwinding. I sometimes organize private dinners there under the stars, around a fire, with musicians, good wine and that unique silence. Far from clichés, Agafay has a power you'd never suspect.
Escape to the Atlas mountains and have lunch with local people
I'm passionate about the mountains. It's my real passion. I often go hiking in the Atlas Mountains with a guide, and my favorite thing to do is to stop off in a small village and have lunch with the locals. Wood-fired tajine, homemade bread, simple, genuine hospitality... This is the real Morocco, the one I love so much.
My favorite places in and around Marrakech
- Le Jardin d'Anima (created by André Heller, out of time)
- Le Paradis du Safran, an educational farm between Ourika and the Atlas mountains, fascinating and soothing
- Cactus Thieman, a few kilometers from the city, a surprising and little-known botanical garden
After 10 years in Marrakech, here are my tips
1. Plan your trip in advance
This is the advice I always give: Marrakech can be chaotic if you improvise everything. Good addresses need to be reserved, guides need to be earned, and transfers are more comfortable when everything is arranged. Going through a reputable agency is your guarantee of experiencing the best of the city without stress.
2. Avoid summer in Marrakech
In July and August, daytime temperatures can exceed 45°C. Unless you love scorching heat, I recommend coming in spring or autumn. Even winter is pleasant here - bright, mild, lively.
3. Get up early
Marrakech is slowly waking up. The locals live late, very late indeed, especially in summer. As a result, the early hours of the day are calm, cool and perfect for exploring the souks, the gardens, or even for a stroll in the Atlas Mountains. This is when the city is at its most beautiful.
4. Eat local
Moroccan cuisine is a marvel. Tajines and couscous come to mind, as do Moroccan salads, pastillas, tanjias, msemen, harira... Don't hesitate to try out the little local places, ask Marrakchis for their favorite spots, or take a cooking class with a Berber family or a local chef. These are often the best experiences of the trip.
5. Do as the Marrakchis do, take your time
Marrakech isn't a city you "tick off". It's a city that you live, that you feel. Sit on a terrace, observe, breathe, listen to the call of the muezzin at sunset, savor the local rhythm. The real luxury here is time.
Is Marrakech a safe city?
It's a question that comes up a lot. And my answer is simple: I feel safer here than in Paris or Brussels.
The police presence is real and visible: in the souks, in the squares, in the modern districts. There's a clear desire to preserve the peace and quiet of visitors. I walk alone, day or night, in the medina or elsewhere, without ever feeling in danger.
People are respectful, discreet and often friendly. Yes, there is sometimes a little commercial insistence, but no aggression. Violent crime is extremely rare. Frankly, if you keep a minimum of vigilance with your belongings, you have nothing to worry about.
What's the budget for a week in Marrakech?
What I love about Marrakech is that there's something for everyone, from backpackers to honeymooners:
- Top-of-the-range travel: from €5,000 per couple, for a week in a palace, with private chauffeur, gourmet dinners and exclusive experiences.
- Comfort travel: count €1,200 to €2,000 per person with beautiful riads, good restaurants, private tours and everyday comforts.
- Smart travel: between €400 and €600 a week, with modest accommodations, street food and self-guided tours. Marrakech is affordable.
Marrakech isn't just a destination. It's a world, a universe of its own, a blend of intensity, beauty and gentleness. It's a place where you experience powerful moments, where you meet memorable people and where you keep coming back for more. After 10 years here, I can tell you one thing: those who take the time to really discover Marrakech fall in love. And often... they come back.
